Dear Carl, Jake, Laura, Laura, Meg and Serena,
I hope all your travel plans have gone as expected since I last saw you. Meg and Jake, I hope you arrived in Rome with no further delays. I can only imagine you were pretty bushed by the time you got there. Assuming nothing else intervened, Rome is the reward in itself. Just watch out for the pick-pockets. Our experience a few years ago was a classic. Lots of luggage, of course, we wer boxed in on an escalator by a team who frisked us as we got off. We detected the attempt, but I know friends who had the same experience and weren't as fortunate with their fortunes.
Will and Laura, I hope you have found basking in the Zanzibar sun to be soothing and re-energizing.
Carl, Laura and Serena, I hope you arrived home without incident to loved ones and their hugs after your long journey!
Now here are your assignments.... Just kidding. Just so you don't worry, I gave you all A+. I cannt understand why those other faculty members were thinking B! Just kidding again.
You were all stellar. We have had students two years in a row that really have set a high standard.
Well, I had a minor travel adventure. After leaving the airport, I was Shanghaid, well not to Shanghai, but to the New Africa Hotel, where I was forced to live in the lap of luxury for a day. Oh, the pain! I could have been in any number of fancy hotels in the USA or Europe. Except to go outside, I toally lost track of being in Africa, except for the poverty and street vendors, daladalas, buses, katangas, street corner beggars missing limbs and one or two other differences.
It was a relaxing time. We got on our plane without a hitch, and though I was pretty relaxed and confident about it, this solo mzungu couldn't help but get a little twinge of anxiety.
Last night brought a couple of fortuitous events. The lady at the KLM desk remained calm and kind throughout the experience. When I understood that, I couldn't help but thank her for her courtesy and kindness, Meg. Today, she was back and for us it was easy to be gracious and all smiles. I thanked her again. In Swahili.
The other is the acquaintance of Jim Dobbin, a consultant to big organizations who applies a comprehensive evaluation of business, social and cultural circumstances to give companies an integrated understanding of their potential business in a community, instead of the silos companies often have, limiting all concerned. He taught me many things in a short time. It was great! I look forward to our paths crossing again in the future.
As I write, it is AM at home and I am near boarding time for my flight. Send me a note when you can. I will be sending a group email about a couple things shortly after I get home.
I treasure the experience with all of you. Each has unique gifts complementing your marvelous skills and knowledge. See you all soon!
Ilula-Friends-2012
Saturday, February 18, 2012
Friday, February 17, 2012
It’s a God thing….
2-17-2012
As noted above, I am supposed to be home in a few hours your
time. Add 24.
Yes, a BROWN elephant! |
Currently, I am sitting in one of the swanky Dar hotels, the
New Africa Hotel. I just had lunch at
another swanky hotel, the Serena. But
that isn’t the half of it!
Last night, while I sadly left Jake and Meg standing in the
Dar airport, with no control over the situation at all, I was ushered to a cab
to take us to the NAH, sharing with an executive-type in a sport coat and
tie. In the Dar airport. Our conversation quickly turned to our
activities.
Pumba. Hakuna metata! |
His name is James Dobbin and he does consulting work for big
companies in Africa. His team studies
sites in a comprehensive, multidisciplinary way, precisely to avoid the silo
effect that so many companies can fall into accidentally, limiting their own
profits and not maximizing communities where they are investing time and
energy.
Elephant's cousin, the Rock Hyrax. |
He was enormously interested in the Ilula Nutrition Project,
although it needs a different, more inclusive name. He liked the multi-layer approach with Ilula,
Amani Orphanage and Ag Institute. He
offered me many insights and has offered an introduction to someone he knows at
USAID. Then we would have two contacts
there. Jim also said, paraphrasing, to
ask for a lot of money, because USAID isn’t
likely to have much interest in small projects. One
beauty of ours is the potential scalability to a broader area. Wow! Serendipity, perhaps. Or it's a God thing.
Golden-Breasted Weaver |
One thing he did not offer was money (no, I didn’t
ask). Does anyone know where we could
find $500,000? How about $50,000? Does anyone know of benefactors who might be
interested? Does anyone know Mary Lee
Dayton? I think this would be right up
her alley. Think about it. Please!
Here are a few fun photos.
I know you skipped to them first, but I hope you read this installment,
perhaps even thinking I was going to describe the photos. Nope.
Just captions. I hope you enjoy them. Come on over to watch the other one thousand I took!
Bubba Baboon |
Hopefully, I will get out on tonight's plane. I have a boarding pass, a good sign, I believe. Jim and I are confirmed for our flight. Another good sign, I believe.
Thursday, February 16, 2012
On the way home
2-16-2012
Well, some are and some aren’t.
We arrived in plenty of time to get registered, about 2.5
hours early. After dropping us off at
the airport, Will and Laura went back to FPCT with Peter. We had spent a nice
afternoon at Wood Carver’s market, late lunch and shopping at Slipway and nice
dinner at Sea Cliff.
All of us were in line, but for a few of us it was for
naught. “There is big trouble with your
ticket.” Loosely translated, “We are
over booked and you are bumped.” Serena
and Laura Brown got on. Carl was bumped,
but was later called up. Meg and Jake
were bumped too. Meg and Jake were
rebooked on a flight leaving at 3 AM our time and will miss there original flight
to Rome. That is rebooked too and they
will get in (tired) about a half day late.
There wasn’t time for them to go back to FPCT, but apparently, KLM was
going to feed them. (We just came from
dinner.)
I was bumped too.
Currently, it is nearly 1 AM and I am sitting at the New Africa
Hotel. I will be asleep in a few
minutes. I will ultimately get in about
midnight instead of noon tomorrow.
All’s well that ends well.
Stay tuned for the end of this cliffhanger! Now really.
Tis isn’t a soap opera. It is a
mere inconvenience. (Still a PITA.) See you all soon!
Wednesday, February 15, 2012
Free Pentecostal Church of Tanzania Hostel
2-16-2012
We arrived in Dar last night after a fairly grueling drive
and ride. If I say it was grueling as a
rider, I hardly can imagine myself what it was like driving! From Mikumi to the outskirts of Dar the
traffic gets progressively worse. We
arrived in Dar what I imagine to be rush hour.
If it was not, I don’t know what would classify as “rush.” Our driver, Peter, whom many of you know from
your own trips is a great driver. He
accommodates the careening city buses with aplomb. Pedestrians dart to and fro. It is a nerve-wracking experience. You cannot afford Valium as a driver either,
or anything else that might slow the reaction time, although I cannot help but
think some of the other drivers, many of the other drivers, have had something
that disinhibits their brains from even self-preservation.
Along the road we did see several accidents. Leaving Ilula, near the canyon, there was a
semi a hundred yards up the mountain, on its side if I remember correctly. I am guessing it was the product of a
runaway, but with no deceleration ramp there to begin with. There is now.
We saw a burned-out container trailer, I am quite sure was there three
weeks ago and Carl confirmed it to be present five weeks ago. As we neared Dar, there was a huge traffic
jam. As we passed, we could see the
wreckage of a motorbike on its side lodged underneath the front end of a
coaster bus. We could not see the driver
of the piki piki, and we presume he was extracted, but of course we do not know
his condition. I sure hope it was a
walk-away! The traffic on that side of
the road was backed up for a couple miles.
Other than long and hot, bad traffic and terrifying drivers,
the trip was slightly marred by the fact that one of us “got sick” (American,
maybe Midwestern, possibly Minnesotan, euphemism for more graphic and colorful
terms for vomiting). We haven’t been
able to figure it out. Presumably it was
food poisoning, but others had the same food.
It started two hours or so after eating and she is much better this
morning, “90%,” she says. (She looks 90%
better too.) No signs of more dire
illness, either. I am simply an observer
here, so I don’t think any HIPAA regulations are trampled.
We ate at the New Africa Hotel, but none of us were very
hungry. The management did accommodate
the patient with a temporary room for cool comfort. Very kind!
The day dawned bright here at FPCT, but I promise you none
of us saw it. Carl and I were up first around
7:30 AM. Ok, so I had been awake for an
hour and I don’t know about Carl or Peter, for that matter. Regardless, we slept “lala fo fofo.” Like a baby.
It is 10:15 AM here, so I hope many who will read this are
sleeping “lala fo fofo” currently. We
are leaving FPCT at 11. This is after my
shower. We need not be in a hurry. We will have plenty of time for the
woodcarver’s market, Slipway and Sea Cliff at that. Next report is likely to be from Amsterdam! Safari Njema to us!
Ruaha and Mwagusi
2-12 to 14-2012
I asked her, “Does Mwagusi mean heaven?” “Yes,” Connie the hostess answered without
hesitation. Can’t help but agree. I think I would like to see how long I could
stay at Mwagusi before I got tired of it.
I probably wouldn’t feel compelled to go on a game drive every day, but
maybe. I wonder if they need a camp
doctor? Bird, I think you have at least
a dozen skills they could use. Which
ones should I check for on the “help wanted” board?
We had a wonderful buffet lunch with tasty salads and
delicious small sandwiches. I tried
about half of the salads, all fresh vegetables.
There was also a nut-crusted veal that was equally tasty, then a small
apple dessert. That and a glass of wine
topped it off. The coffee was rich and
flavorful too.
Peter did his stellar job of driving, as usual and had lunch
with us. It is 3:35 right now and we are
going for our first game drive at 4.
Peter said the group two weeks ago saw a leopard. I asked him if he knew what the word “fib”
means. Not that the big group was
fibbing, of course. Just saying…. We did see a few elephants, antelope, a
giraffe and a zebra way off in the distance as we drove into the park. The students eagerly got out their
cameras. I restrained myself from
saying, “Don’t bother with those, cuz you ain’t seen nuthin’ yet!” And we will probably see at least two
leopards. Regardless, I will be
reporting our amazing animal sightings for the next two days.
We brought two kg of mushrooms from Amani Orphanage as a
small gift for Chris Fox, the owner of Mwagusi.
They actually get the mushrooms they buy from the same place.
Well, if this were a plane flight it would be “wheels up” in
ten minutes, so more later.
2-13-2012
We have now seen half a leopard. Well, over half, I suppose, since half the
group saw a full leopard. Our half saw
the kill and smelled it too, and when we returned it had been moved, presumably
by the very same leopard. And this does
not include the woman from San Francisco who runs each morning in the leopard
print tights. We went back several
times, but several other vehicles di also.
Only our other group got a glimpse of the leopard again. And Carl got two spectacular photos.
We also heard that Ann and Phil saw fifty birds on their
bird-walk. Ha! We saw a HUNDRED birds all at once AND they
were all the same kind! Seriously, we
did see a lot of birds. Got a couple
great pictures and a new one for my “All-Time Favorites” group, a crown
something, something crane. Everyone has
there fair share of great photos.
Well here we go again.
Our last drive in a few minutes, with mid-afternoon tea on the trail. And yup, we had a great time. The elusive leopard remained elusive, but we
enjoyed the tea. Both nights we had
dinner dining on the riverbed. You
simply half to do this. Lanterns and a
bonfire, pre-dinner cocktails (with ice, if desired). The cooking fire is built in a long, banked
line of coals with the pots on the coals.
The staff stands behind and reports what each dish is. Two words, duh-lishus!
2-14-2012
You would be bored if I listed all
the animals we saw, so I will only name a few.
There was Hortense, Alvin, Edith, Bertha and a host of more African
names that I cannot spell. Elephants,
lions (stalking, but not us), zebras, leopard, giraffes, warthogs, jackals,
ostriches (I include it here because it is the TZ national bird and because it
is big), water buck, Grant’s gazelle, impala, greater and lesser kudu (not
kuru, that’s a prion disease, not big game), hippos, those monkeys with the red
butts, oh yeah, baboons, water monitor (think 4 foot lizard, down-sized from my
original estimate of six feet by Justen, our overly conservative guide, I’m
sure), cape buffalo from a million miles away, rock hyrax (a relative of an
elephant, by marriage, perhaps, because it is furry, climbs rocks and is the
size of a punt pup), bands of banded mongoose, crocodiles, dikdik, and oh, so
many more. Many of the animals struck
poses just like in pictures. I think
they have done this before. A nice thing
about Ruaha is the low number of vehicles you see. At the Serengeti, there are lines of cars
waiting in line to see the lion. We saw
two prides of lions and watching the one pride on the prowl was thrilling. The lions wee down wind of the impala, but
they did catch sight of the lions, did some sort of dance equivalent to nana
nana boo boo and took off. Lucky for
them. The lions looked hungry. With the impala out of the picture, I started
noticing what tender morsels we might be.
We left. But not because I was
crying or anything.
We left Ruaha by way of another early morning game drive, but still
didn’t catch sight of the leopard.
Another breakfast on the trail was scrumptious. We ate late lunch at Neema and got to Ilula
about six, all pretty bushed. We invited
a few guests including 7 from the Amani orphanage. Anna made a great soup, enough for all and a
heart-shaped cake, also enough to share.
2-15-2012
So here we are on the bus to Dar.
Gifts we had brought. We finished lunch
at Tan-Swiss and have now passed through Mikumi. Our good-bye this morning was like an
Olson-family goodbye, delaying departure by a half-hour. We gave away the many gifts the students had
brought. I gave all the crosses Bob had
made to the chaplains at Ilula and gave a short closing speech.
It was a great few weeks, by all
accounts.
An Iringa Saturday
2-11-2012
Here it is nearly 5:30 PM. We all spent the day in Iringa.
It started out just Carl and me, but then Tuli and Rita, two of the Ilula
nurses, told the rest that they would be going to iringa, so with them as our
guides, we all went. They shepherded us to and from Iringa and the buses.
We took the daladala - actually, the Tanzanians call it "the
mouse" because it is small - to Mtua and caught the bus there. There
are sort of three parts to Iula. Isile is where the hospital is.
Mtua is next along the highway and a bit more commercial. The third
is Sokoni. Collectively, they are Ilula. The whole community is spread
out along the highway, between the highway and the ridge of mountains along the
road.
The first stop was the BKB office, where no one was home. We did see Gary drive by and waved. The next
stop, without much pause, was the bathroom at the Lutheran Center. I tried to get Dennis Ngede on the phone, but
accidentally dialed Jake’s dad, Mike Feigal, a family doctor in Menominee. At 1:30 AM.
I am truly sorry Mike! At least
he got to here Jake’s normal voice without panic or pain.
A little later, after I finished at the ATM and had just finished my
business with Tatanca I ran into Gary. He was standing outside the fourth
bank he had driven Eunice and Tuti too on student scholarship business.
They need to hand write receipts, if I understood correctly, for all 1500
students and everything is done in cash. Gary hopes (don't we all) to
have a better accounting system by the time we get there this summer.
Then I went back to the apartment and worked on the computer. The bank of four USB ports weren’t
working. (Don wanted to make sure there
were enough USB ports on the front. I
don’t know if he has used more than the two on the front, but now he has six!
It was just a loose wire. Took about 15 minutes for diagnosis
treatment and cure. My hypothesis is
that one of the heavy cables got jostled in the transfers and pulled it out of
the socket is. Since it is Saturday, I charged like a plumber instead of
a doctor. (It is an old joke and not too
funny.)
The others had been shopping and were now laden with baskets,
spices, batiks, a tinga tanga (a special local style of painting) as we met for
lunch.
After lunch at Hasty Tasty Too we walked back to the big bus
station. I understand the system a bit better now. As far as I know
there is no time schedule. As the buses fill up, it takes off. That
may mean waiting until there are enough passengers or that the bus driver
thinks there are enough passengers. I asked Tuli about the passengers who
would duck down. My guess was correct. There are regulations about
how many passengers the bus and "mouse" can hold.
We caught the big bus home. It is an hour and a half trip, and
I feel like a veteran now. We were all exhausted when we got home.
I still couldn't nap. I am pretty relaxed tonight.
My granddaughter Parker Grace, whom I call Sparky had her second
birthday yesterday. Birdie said she came
into the house and queried, “Grampa?” Almost broke my heart! I will be home in a week, but with plenty of
fun left to come!
As I have been reorganizing for the return trip, I discovered a pair
of socks in the suitcase Bev and Gary gave me to use and is staying
here. I think they may be Gary's or one of the boys. I think I
should bring them home. It would be
novel to say they had been to Africa and back!
Nuts! This may be a few days late.
There is no power to the internet room.
Oh well, this is Africa!
Friday, February 10, 2012
Our last full day at Ilula
2-10-2012
All days here seem to be good days, despite the lack of
resources and terribly ill patients.
Today I gave a little presentation on the Ilula Nutrition
Project – I am looking for a better name.
It went well. The nurses and
doctors were very engaged. It helped to
have Dr. Rite translate. I got a few
minutes into the talk before Mama Saga, the hospital Matron (head nurse) gently
came from the back row to Rite in the font and whispered to him. He politely suggested he could
interpret. It worked well. I was supposed to take ten minutes, so I told
the group I took ten minutes and Dr. Rite took ten minutes.
Then they played into my hands and asked many
questions! What could we do, but answer
them? We also let them sample the
Plumpy’Nut. The change in their
expressions was a little like watching a kid see cauliflower and taste ice
cream.
Meg Fiegal and I spent an hour reviewing a grant application
she had done so I could get the gist of how they go. Very helpful.
But still daunting. One think we
discovered is that the complete application does not need to be in, only the
concept paper. I have collected info
from Institute of Agriculture and will get info from Amani Orphanage early next
week.
I will publish the draft of the description, perhaps as a
web page and not until I return home.
Rounds were busy. We
have seen some patients improving, which is very gratifying of course. My sister Bev wonders who gets most out of
the experience. I hope it is at least
equal parts. Meg is doing a number of
interviews for a video and one of the docs said what he wanted most from us is
more to come and visit and see how we are doing!
I will head to Iringa in the morning to look at the BKB
computer. I assembled it, but the front
USB ports are not working. They did when
I built it, so I am hoping it is a loose wire from transport. I will know quickly. If it isn’t I will get a replacement part and
install it in July, when Birdie and I return.
Last night, one of the beloved suffered a laceration on the
finger. No tendon or nerve damage.
HIPAA regulations prevent me from identifying Meg, so I won’t do that. I can tell you that one of the near-physicians
did a beautiful repair. I can’t really
tell you his name either, but I noticed Jake’s hands were a little shaky. I didn’t tell him I noticed. As I cannot in good conscience mention their
names as noted earlier, I think I can say that this patient said it was the
only time she would ever let this doctor work on her. But I would!
Another hapless fool, not Meg |
PS Meg gave permission and don’t let her tell you
otherwise. Jake isn’t covered by HIPAA
in this case anyway, as far as I know.
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